I was an outsider before I was a traveler; I was a traveler before I was a writer; I think one led to the other.
— PAUL THEROUX

 

Tamiko Rast Tamiko Rast

Montreal Grand Prix Weekend, 2003

To get out of the rain, I slip into a bar called the Madhatter at the corner of Drummond and Maissoneuve, calling itself the “best dive around.” The far wall is "el muerte wall"—the dead wall—with photos of Jimi Hendrix, the Rat Pack, James Dean and more. Handwritten across a wooden crossbeam in big black lettering I see Morrissey lyrics: “What she asked of me at the end of the day, Caligula would have blushed.”

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Tamiko Rast Tamiko Rast

An Evening at Jules et Jim

I was drinking on a Saturday night, in a Québec City bar called Jules et Jim. Dark, smoky and its subterranean walls adorned with old movie photos befitting a place named after the classic François Truffaut film...

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